Following the announcement of the Oscars nominees on Monday morning, it appears that the long-overdue overhaul of the arcane voting process that took place in 2017 is finally leading to significant, long-term change. While David Fincher’s Mank led with 10 nominations—unsurprising, given the Academy’s well-known predilection for anything celebrating the mythos and glamour of Old Hollywood—the acting categories saw a welcome increase in diversity. 

Still, as with years past, the nominations by and large speak to a specific kind of period film that the Academy finds palatable to reward. One snub, in particular, that feels glaring is Charlese Antoinette Jones’s impressive work on Judas and the Black Messiah, which blended her meticulous research into the sartorial codes of the Black Panthers with a character-led approach that mixed vintage looks with custom-made pieces, honoring the important historical accuracy of her actors’ wardrobes while still managing to feel exciting and fresh. It’s all the more remarkable upon learning that Judas was one of Jones’s first major studio films, marking her out as a serious talent on the rise. 

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